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Whatever unofficial accolades get doled out during these men’s collections, KidSuper’s “Bull in a China Shop” show on Thursday should be recognized for its go-big-or-go-home pluck. Founded by native New Yorker Colm Dillane, the streetwear-centric label is part of this season’s mini migration of American brands testing Paris as a launchpad. The show took place at the Cirque d’Hiver Bouglione, a theatrical venue built during the Second Empire for circuses and other performances in the round. And between his parents doubling as models and the breakdancing matador, it attested to his unhinged imagination.
“When you think of fashion, you think of Paris. It’s like going to Hollywood if you’re an actor. So bringing the collection here is wild,” said the 27-year-old who sold T-shirts in his high school cafeteria but went on to study mathematics at university. “For me, math is the essence of creativity; you can’t change the rules, but how can you think creatively to solve the problem?”
Breaking out in Paris would certainly qualify as such. Even the boldface names who have worn his clothes—J Balvin, Shawn Mendes, Young Thug, Mahershala Ali, and Khalid—have done so with little song and dance. But this didn’t matter because, well, he had the circus. Plus, he had his crew: Beyond his mom and dad, several longtime friends took a spin around the stage. Rapper Russ Vitale sang a catchy, custom song with lyrics that repeated KidSuper’s name over and over again.
The combined men’s and women’s collection played up Spanish influences while loading the looks with arts-and-crafts details. Patchworks and direct placements of Dillane’s hand-drawn illustrations felt like wearable outsider art; an accumulation of materials that benefited from the workmanship of a veteran Dapper Dan tailor who goes by the name Big L. If some leaned too clownish for everyday comfort, they also were delightfully daring. After the finale, in which a girl in an asymmetric, tiered bridal-style dress was seduced by the breakdancing matador, Dillane came out to express his gratitude, acknowledging that this wasn’t the fashionable thing to do: “Guys, you have no idea how much work and effort went into this. I love all of you.” We look forward to his return.